Exfoliation 101
- milehighmolly
- Aug 3, 2020
- 8 min read
Exfoliation is a very important step in skincare used to aid in the regeneration of skin cells by removing dead skin. This allows the skin to renew itself, revealing the brighter, softer skin underneath. Unfortunately, it's very misunderstood and most of us either do it too often or too harshly, causing damage and irritation. In this article we're going to explore the different types of exfoliation, how they work, and the BEST way to properly exfoliate your skin. Buckle up and get ready to learn, this is a loaded topic!
Physical Exfoliants
The first type of exfoliation is physical exfoliation. This describes the action of manually scrubbing the skin with either a product or tool to remove dead skin. Physical exfoliant products, or "scrubs", employ tiny particles of an abrasive substance, like micro-beads, pumice (cringe), or even nut shells (super cringe), suspended in a moisturizing fluid that you physically rub across the face to remove dead skin cells. Exfoliating tools like facial cleansing brushes work in the same way.
Technically physical exfoliation is effective, however it's the most irritating and damaging way to exfoliate the sensitive skin on your face, and is to be avoided at all costs. Abrasive substances and tools can create small tears in the skin, which creates redness, irritation, and sensitivity. These small surface wounds damage the vital skin barrier against outside contaminants (free radicals). This increases susceptibility to introducing bacteria into the face and causing acne. The only acceptable place to use physical exfoliants is on the tougher skin of the body, not on the face. I absolutely LOVE using epsom salt or sugar body scrubs- Dr. Teal's is tried-and-true favorite that comes to mind. Salt and sugar scrubs are both water-soluble and dissolve with use, so they are a gentler choice for a body scrub.
The only physical exfoliant I've found that is gentle enough for use on the face is the Bliss Jelly Glow Peel. This exfoliant is unique in that it is not abrasive, but uses fruit enzymes to break down dead skin, which balls up on the surface of the skin and gently rinses away. Unfortunately, it does contain some fragrant oils which may be irritating to sensitive skin, but otherwise this is the only physical exfoliant I can recommend or tolerate.
Chemical Exfoliants
Now, let's move on to the best way to exfoliate, which is chemical exfoliation. It sounds scarier than it is, I promise! Actually, chances are you've used chemical exfoliants before and didn't even know it. Have you ever used or heard of salicylic acid? Well, that's a chemical exfoliant! Basically, the term "chemical exfoliant" describes different types of acids that dissolve dead skin without the need for any scrubbing action. This makes it the gentlest way to exfoliate. There are two main types of exfoliating acids, which we'll get into below, and they are available in a wide variety of products and strengths which makes them very versatile. But, because they are acids, they can be damaging if you don't use them correctly.
Let's get into the different exfoliating acids, what they're used for, and how they exfoliate the skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) - the smoothers
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, known in short as AHAs, are acids derived mainly from fruits that work by exfoliating the surface layer of skin, improving skin texture, the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, smoothing the skin, and lightening discoloration. These acids are water-soluble, meaning they only work on the surface level of skin, and thus helping with a wide variety of surface-level skin concerns. These are best for people looking for anti-aging benefits, correcting tone issues like hyperpigmentation or melasma, and for smoothing the surface of the skin.
The most common AHAs include: lactic acid (gentlest), glycolic acid (most popular & strongest AHA), citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and mandelic acid. You can find a wealth of products that contain a combination of these AHAs, or products that employ one AHA only.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) - the cleaners
Beta Hydroxy Acid, known in short as BHA or Salicylic Acid, is derived mainly from willow bark and works by penetrating deeply into the pores and dissolving oil and sebum, which makes it extremely useful in treating acne. BHAs are oil-soluble, which is why they have the ability to penetrate into our oil-producing pores and dissolve acne-causing bacteria from the deeper levels of the skin. This helps the skin to regulate oil production more effectively by unclogging pores. These exfoliants are best for oily, acne-prone skin, and can be more irritating and drying for those with sensitive, dry skin types.
The Ground Rules
Before we cover the different types of exfoliant products you have to choose from, there are a few ground rules that will help you to use these products safely and effectively.
DON'T exfoliate everyday.
Exfoliation is not an everyday treatment. It removes the top layer of dead skin and should be approached with a healthy respect. It doesn't mean you need to be afraid of it, but it does mean you should use exfoliants mindfully and at the correct strength your skin can tolerate, otherwise you risk irritation and even chemical burns. Ideally, if you're starting out having never used chemical exfoliants, it's best to use them only once or twice a week in the beginning, and then start adding another day until you work up to using it MAX every other day, which works out to be about 3-4 times a week.
Choose a low concentration, gentle exfoliant
When you're looking into purchasing a chemical exfoliant product for the first time (or if you have sensitive skin), choose a mild AHA or BHA product. What that means is that the percentage of free acids in the product needs to be low, 10% AHA or less, or less than 2% BHA. Mild products will also be marketed as "sensitive" or "gentle". Regardless of marketing, always check the ingredients, pH levels (higher pH is gentler), and follow manufacturers' instructions. Using a gentle exfoliant is ESPECIALLY important if you plan on exfoliating more frequently. If you're only exfoliating once a week, it's okay to use a stronger product if your skin tolerates the mild ones well. But as a rule, always start mild and work up to stronger products as your skin allows.
Always fragrance-free!
If you've been reading my blog for any length of time, you'll know that my mantra for skincare products is always FRAGRANCE-FREE. All the chemical exfoliants I've recommended here are fragrance-free, but if you're venturing out on your own search, please look for ones that don't have added perfumes or fragrant oils.
Exfoliate at night.
Because you're removing the surface layer of skin, exfoliants make your skin more sensitive. This means that you want to protect your skin as much as possible and let the treatment work overnight, so that when you wake up your skin is refreshed from the treatment and has had at least 8 hours to renew and repair itself.
DON'T use retinols, anti-aging or acne treatments on the same night.
Retinols and acne treatments turn over skin cells at a faster rate, which acts in a similar manner to exfoliation. Used together, this can cause over-exfoliation, irritation, and even chemical burns if you try to use too many harsh ingredients on your face at the same time, and then you won't see benefits from either of them! Stick to one active ingredient per routine, and let it do its work. Save the retinol for another night.
WEAR SUNSCREEN!
When your face is freshly exfoliated in the AM, your skin is naturally going to be a little more sensitive to sunlight and will burn more easily. You'll notice on most exfoliating AHA/BHA products, the instructions specifically tell you to wear sunscreen and avoid the sun while using these products. Listen to them!! Your new baby soft skin needs time away from the sun to restore its protective barrier.
Now, let's choose a product!
Choosing the right product for your concerns
If you've never used chemical exfoliants before, it can be overwhelming to choose a product. There are SO MANY of them on the market to choose from. Where are you supposed to start?! Well, the most important determining factor in what product you choose depends entirely on your skin concerns, and the type of product you're using that will determine where this product fits into your skincare routine. There isn't a right or wrong answer to what you should choose- not all products are created equal, and they need to be used differently. The goal here is to maximize the benefits of that product within an existing routine. Let's dive into some different types of chemical exfoliants to choose from, and where they would be used in a routine.
Exfoliating serums / leave-on treatments
Serums and leave-on treatments are a simple, straightforward way to exfoliate. Select whichever chemical exfoliant fits your concerns (AHAs, BHAs, or a blend). As with any new serum you're trying, it's best to mix it with a bit of moisturizer for the first week or so, to dilute the product & reduce any irritation. If your skin is tolerating it well, then you can apply directly to the skin. To fit this into your skincare routine, apply the product to freshly cleansed and toned skin, and then apply moisturizer. You're done! Three steps for the win.
For beginners, I would recommend The Ordinary 5% Lactic Acid + HA serum, pictured above. Lactic acid is the most gentle AHA, and this lowest-concentration formula makes it wonderful for beginners. It also includes Hyaluronic Acid as well to hydrate the skin. Plus, it's SO AFFORDABLE it's crazy. Based on the reviews I've seen and read, this is pretty well-tolerated among the majority of skin types. I have been using this for months and I really have noticed an improvement in my skin's softness and texture. This also comes in a 10% formula for more experienced users.
Exfoliating Toners
There are liquid exfoliant toners that are used in a similar way to serums. You would just swipe the toner across a freshly cleansed face with a cotton round, let dry and apply moisturizer and go to sleep. I haven't used an exfoliating toner personally, but I've heard they are very popular and there are a huge variety of different toners available to choose from. The most popular by far seems to be glycolic acid toners, which is the strongest AHA.
Exfoliating masks
This is personally my favorite way to exfoliate. I just think face masks are so much fun to use, and they make me feel so pampered! After cleansing, apply an exfoliating mask and leave on for the recommended time. Rinse off to reveal immediately brighter, smoother skin, and then moisturize with a rich moisturizer to protect your skin barrier. It's normal for exfoliating masks to tingle, feel slightly warm, or even kind of itchy, but if your skin becomes too uncomfortable or stings a lot during the process, it's totally okay to rinse it off earlier than recommended. Listen to your skin!!
For beginners, I would recommend Juice Beauty's Green Apple Peel Sensitive, pictured above. It contains a mild organic AHA blend, derived from apples and other fruits. To me, it smells just like stewed apples! They also have a full-strength version of this mask that includes BHAs, for the more experienced exfoliator. Only use stronger products if you don't have sensitive skin!
For the experienced exfoliator:
The Ordinary AHA 30% BHA 2% Peeling Solution. This is an AMAZING combination AHA/BHA peel that targets both surface-level and acne concerns in one mask. Plus, it looks like blood so that's kind of interesting and makes it fun and weird. Again, being that it's The Ordinary brand, you can always count on it being affordable too. I would recommend this only for acne-prone, oily skin types that are not sensitive. This mask is meant to treat more stubborn skin problems that normal exfoliants won't help with. Because it's 32% free acids, this means that you only want to use it if you're experienced with exfoliants and you DO NOT have sensitive skin. Do a patch test first and follow the directions to a T. At most, it's to be used only once per week. This is strong, but effective if you do it the right way. I have seen a huge improvement in my stubborn blackheads since using this. My skin always feels so soft and clean after I use this.
Now, armed with the information about the types of exfoliating products out there and how they work, you'll be well-prepared to begin exfoliating regularly. Choose a product that makes the most sense for your economy of time in your routine, and for your own unique concerns.
If you have a question about exfoliation, or are confused about what would be best for you, leave a comment below and I'd be happy to help!
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