The Morning Routine

The morning routine is similar to the nighttime routine, but it is more gentle, aiming to hydrate and protect your skin for the day ahead. It's definitely more minimal in that I don't recommend using acne treatments in the daytime, but there's still room in this routine to add other active ingredients to target non-acne concerns!

Overview

1. Cleanse

2. Tone (optional)

3. Serum (optional)

4. Moisturize

5. Protect

Let's Begin!

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1. CLEANSE

Pictured above, right to left: CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser (normal to oily skin), CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser (normal to dry skin)

The first step in the morning is to cleanse your face with a gentle cleanser to remove any dead skin that the Differin/acne treatment has exfoliated throughout the night, and will rebalance the skin. You can use whatever you like, but the most important thing is that the cleanser you choose doesn't have harsh surfactants (like sulfates) that will dry out your skin, and doesn't include any acne treatments. It's my skincare approach that acne treatments do not belong in your facial cleanser, and that you should use targeted, stand-alone products to treat acne. Retinoids are amazing for treating acne, and are my "hero" ingredient that I use nightly.

The point of cleansing is to remove dirt and oil, and to re-balance your skin to prepare it to accept different active ingredients, whether they are acne-fighting or otherwise. If you're using a cleanser with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, and then putting additional serums/treatments on top of that, it can be very irritating and counterproductive to what you're trying to correct.

How To Use: Wet face and gently massage 1-2 pumps of gentle cleanser all over your face for about a minute, then rinse off and pat dry with a clean towel.

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2. TONE (optional)

This is where you would put your hydrating toner if you are using one. Refer to step 3 of the nighttime routine for information on hydrating toners and how to use one.

Link : The Nighttime Routine

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3. SERUM (optional)

Next, I like to use serums to target non-acne concerns. Since I treat my acne with only Differin at night (you should only choose ONE acne treatment or anti-aging treatment in your nighttime routine), the morning is where I can fit in other active ingredients and benefit from them as well. I like to use a Vitamin C serum to brighten my skin and protect against sun damage. Vitamin C is a great antioxidant that has a lot of brightening and anti-aging benefits. Add serum into your routine slowly, only after your skin gets used to retinoids/acne treatments at night! Make sure whatever you use is fragrance-free and essential oil free!

How to Use: If you've never used serum before, or if you're trying a new one you've never used before, start by mixing a few drops of serum with your moisturizer for the first week, until your skin gets used it. After that time, if your skin is tolerating the serum well, you can rub a few drops between your palms and press it directly into your skin for maximum benefits. If you choose to use Vitamin C, you should know that is naturally acidic -after all, Vitamin C in its purest form is an acid, L Ascorbic Acid- so it’s always best to dilute it at first to prevent any sensitivity. If you're using Differin, don't incorporate any serums in the daytime until you are not experiencing side effects anymore.

Affordable Vitamin C Serums I like:

Timeless Vitamin C Serum

Maelove the Glow Maker

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4. MOISTURIZE

Pictured above L to R : CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion // Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel Cream (richer)

Next, apply a gentle moisturizer to hydrate the skin. You can use the same moisturizer from your nighttime routine - it's easier as well as cheaper to use the same moisturizer morning and night- as long as it doesn't contain acne treatments or anti-aging treatments and is fragrance-free. I recommend CeraVe PM, ironically, as it's really gentle and light for daytime wear. It isn't greasy and doesn't break me out, even in the hot summer months.

How to Use: Apply a dime sized amount of moisturizer evenly to the face.

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5. PROTECT

Pictured above L to R : Australian Gold Botanical SPF 50 Tinted (semi-matte finish)// EltaMd UV Physical SPF 41 Tinted (hydrating finish)

EVERY MORNING, rain or shine, use a broad spectrum SPF, preferably 30-50SPF. Broad spectrum protects against both UVB rays (burning rays), and UVA (aging/damaging rays). This is the most important part of your morning routine. Sunscreen is your number-one anti-aging tool and has been proven to protect against skin damage and skin cancer. 1/4tsp is the recommended amount to use on your face and neck to get the protection on the bottle. If you only use a little bit, you’re only getting a fraction of the SPF. It’s kind of like taking a half-dose of medicine and wondering why it isn’t working! According to the American Academy of Dermatology, most people only use 25-50% of the recommended amount. It is especially important to use SPF everyday if you’re using a retinoid or chemical exfoliant, because it thins the outer layer of skin and makes it more sensitive to sunlight.

Facial sunscreens are notoriously hard to formulate in a way that doesn’t feel greasy on your skin, doesn't give you a white cast, and will work well with your makeup. It may take some time, but it's important to find a facial SPF that you can tolerate using the full 1/4 teaspoon on your face, which you'll find is a decent amount of product. I have recommended a couple of tinted mineral SPFs above that feel great on the skin and work well under makeup.

Chemical vs mineral filters

People like chemical sunscreen filters (avobenzone, octinoxate, oxybenzone, octisalate, etc) because they dry clear and don't leave a white residue, but they can sting sensitive skin and have been shown to have a negative effect on the ocean and coral reefs. More recently, there has been another FDA study that came out this year that shows some chemical filters accumulate in the body in higher than normal levels, which suggests negative health implications. It's much better to use broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen filters: zinc and titanium dioxide only.

The problem with mineral-only sunscreens is that they can make you look like a ghost- but there's a great way around this. Enter tinted SPFs to the rescue! These changed my sunscreen game big-time. Tinted SPFs are wonderful because they not only fight the white cast, but they double as a light foundation depending on the formula tint, and work well with most skin tones. Mixed Makeup has a helpful video about mineral sunscreens for darker skin tones, and it includes some tinted ones as well, though it is obvious that there is a big gap in the market where you just don't see enough darker tinted sunscreens specifically for black people, that are mineral-only. But hopefully my darker-skinned audience can find at least one product in that video that would work for them, if the ones I recommended don't work with your skin. I understand it can be a struggle, but just try some different ones, and see what you like best!

The best sunscreen is the one you will actually use!

How to Use:

Get a measuring spoon and measure out 1/4 teaspoon of sunscreen. Dot little bits of it all over your face and neck, and evenly rub in until absorbed. Repeat this process until all the sunscreen is applied. Let dry for a few minutes before applying makeup.