The Best Kept Secret in Skincare...

... And what you've been missing out on!

If you've never heard of retinoids, let me introduce you to your new best friend in skincare. This active ingredient is the ultimate multitasker, single-handedly treating acne, correcting skin tone and hyperpigmentation, and fighting the signs of aging. It can be a tricky ingredient to master, but if used correctly and in the right formulation for your skin, you will see amazing results. So let's dive into what retinoids are, and the pros and cons of using them in your daily skincare routine.

What are retinoids, and what do they do?

Retinoids describe the family of Vitamin A derivatives in skincare. They regulate skin cell turnover and help the skin to renew itself quickly, which helps to heal acne, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, and even correct signs of sun damage and hyperpigmentation. They have been studied extensively for decades, and have been proven to treat multiple areas of concern. Most retinoids are prescription-only because they're strong ingredients and need to be used under the supervision of a dermatologist. However, there is one retinoid, Differin, that is available over-the-counter and I've seen great results over the past 9-odd months. Here are the three main types of retinoids:

1. Tretinoin: Tretinoin, otherwise known as Retin-A, has been the gold-standard of retinoids for decades. It is the most well-studied, and is prescription-only. Retin-A was originally marketed for acne, but now it's more commonly used for those wanting better skin tone and anti-aging benefits. It comes in a variety of strengths so you can start out at the lowest strength that will be easier to incorporate into your skincare routine if you're a beginner.

2. Adapalene: This is the only over-the-counter retinoid available, most commonly known as Differin 0.1%. This retinoid is marketed mainly as an acne treatment, though it has been shown to have anti-aging benefits as well. It is very affordable and easier to find. Adapalene is the most well-tolerated retinoid as well, so it's less likely that you'll experience as much irritation. Higher strengths are available by prescription only.

3. Tazarotene: This is the least commonly used retinoid, and is the most irritating, but it's extremely effective. It's mostly used to treat acne and plaque psoriasis. This is prescription-only and should only be used per your dermatologist's recommendation.

Who should use retinoids?

Retinoids are not for everyone- they are strong, but you stand the chance to see amazing results from them. Retinoids are great for those wanting to see REAL results. If you suffer from acne, want to get serious about anti-aging, or improve your skin tone, talk to your dermatologist about starting a retinoid and choosing the best one for your skin concerns. Women who are pregnant or may become pregnant should NOT use retinoids or retinols.

How is retinol different from a retinoid?

Retinols are not to be confused with retinoids- retinoids describe the "original family" of active Vitamin A (retinoic acid). Retinol is an umbrella term for over-the-counter cosmeceutical products that anyone can buy. There are a great many retinol products on the market, containing derivative ingredients such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinaldehyde (or retinal), among others.

Retinols have to rely on the skin's own chemistry to convert them into retinoic acid, the active state of Vitamin A that delivers results. In this way, they are much less irritating and can be tolerated more easily than retinoids. The downside to using retinol is that you don't see as drastic results, and it takes longer to notice a difference in your skin. These products would be great for someone who is new to Vitamin A products and isn't looking to treat serious skin concerns. It's great for adding that youthful glow into your routine.

How do you use Retinoids/Retinol?

The process of starting a retinoid can be described as a marathon. Slow and steady always wins the race with this active ingredient. It takes up to 12 weeks for skin to get used to retinoids and to see results from them, but it is definitely worth the wait. In the beginning, there are side effects that are to be expected : dryness, irritation, and peeling. Fortunately, there are ways to mitigate these side effects while you're getting started while still seeing great results.

I've created a step-by-step guide with my Nighttime Routine that will help you get started using retinoids/retinol. Here are some additional tips:

Only use retinoids at night. This family of ingredients are photo-sensitive, so light can inactivate it. Plus, they make your skin more sensitive to sunlight, so using it at night prevents sunburn after applying your product. You want to give your skin time to absorb the product and let it do its work overnight.

Don't use it every night- at first. Retinoids are strong products and you can expect some irritation, so in the beginning, start out using it only once or twice a week. After two weeks, if your skin is tolerating it well, add in another day. Mark it on your calendar to keep track. Space out this process over 2 week intervals until you are able to use the retinoid/retinol every other night, and then every night.

It should take about 4-6 weeks to work up to daily use- but it may take longer, and this is okay! As you use it more frequently, you'll probably notice more side effects, so don't be afraid to pull back a little bit if you're getting too irritated. You will still see results- don't worry! Give your skin time to get used to it. Daily use will give you the best results, but there isn't a rule that says you have to use it every night. However- retinoids are not a spot treatment, so it's important to be CONSISTENT, even if you're only using it once a week.

Don't use other active ingredients in the same routine. Retinoids don't play well with other products, and it will likely irritate your skin more, or inactivate the treatment. Keep the rest of your products simple and free from acne or anti-aging treatments. It's my personal belief that acne treatments do not belong in your face wash or moisturizer. Let your retinoid do all the work for you!

Dilute your product with a bit of moisturizer. This is a great way to ease the irritation you can get with these ingredients.

WEAR SUNSCREEN. This is the most important part of your skincare routine anyway, but it is especially important if you use a retinoid. Since the skin cells are turning over at a faster rate, it makes the skin barrier more sensitive and your skin will burn more easily. It is extremely important to use sunscreen everyday and use ENOUGH of it to get adequate protection. See my Morning Routine article to learn how to use sunscreen effectively.

My results

I've had incredible results using Differin over the past 9+ months. My skin has completely changed and my acne has gone away, barring the occasional hormonal breakout that is bound to happen once in a while. Check out My Journey to see before & after pictures using adapalene, or Differin 0.1%.

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Let me know if you have questions!

If there are any questions you have that I didn't cover in this article, leave a comment below and let me know!